Foundation Art in Business
Opname AVRO bij MOYA
Opname AVRO bij atelier Vlasblom & Jakubowski
Jewellery on TV
During the coming 3 weeks Avro’s Kunstuur wil pay attention to contemporary professional jewellery design in its miniseries ‘Makers & Dragers’ (‘Makers & Wearers’). Work from the jewellery designers who participated in ‘Makers & Dragers’ will be on show and for sale during SIERAAD Art Fair. The jewellery items shown on Avro’s Kunstuur will continually be projected on a large screen at the fair.
Prominent contemporary jewellery designers allow us to take a look behind the scenes and tell us why they make these wearable objects. Keen buyers/collectors show and tell which piece of jewellery they bought from these artists and what meaning these pieces have for them. This remarkable series of double portraits was financially made possible by the Premsela foundation, an independent institute for fashion, design and jewellery. This initiative will in all likelihood get a sequel next year in a second, more extensive series of ‘Makers & Dragers’. The series is an initiative of SIERAAD and Foundation Art in Business, the foundation that also organizes the biennial international thematic design contest New Traditional Jewellery.
Santa Claus in summer: being a winner
Whatever professional and lofty reasons we may have to organize the international thematic design contest New Traditional Jewellery (NTJ) every two years, it does look a bit like Santa Claus in summer. Hundreds of boxes and parcels from all parts of the world come together at one address. On the basis of anonymity everything passes through the hands of the jury umpteen times. Four editions later (2006, 2007, 2008 and, from then on biennially, 2010) we have thus far awarded gold and silver prizes to 20 winners. But for us, that is not the end of the story. The recurring question is what the winners did with their prize metal. And so a mail was sent the world over asking that question.
Here are some of the incredible reactions:
Peter Hoogeboom, winner NTJ 2007 Symbols of Faith
“The sheet of silver that I received came in very useful. In my collection ‘Year of the Ox’ I was able to use all of it for the bases of my brooches.”
Brooches, series ‘Year of the Ox’, porcelain and silver.
Carla Nuis, winner NTJ 2006 Historical elements as part of traditional costume.
“The works are based on the classics of the jewellery trade: the Figaro and Gourmet necklaces, the basic wedding ring and the pearl necklace. I removed them from their context and reconstructed each in thin sheet metal, as if they had been cut out of paper. The pieces are deceptive: they look simple, massive and heavy, but are in fact complex, hollow, fragile and light. The Gourmet necklace is even simpler: all links are identical, except in size”.
Gourmet necklace, silver, hollow, 90 cms.
Christina Karababa (Greece), winner NTJ 2006 Historical elements as part of traditional costume.
“In a financial crisis gold is a good investment”. Karababa mounted the 125 grams of gold in a synthetic base with her signature: the ultimate survival kit.
‘In Case’, gold, synthetics
Joke Dubbeldam, winner NTJ 2006 Historical elements as part of traditional costume.
She incorporated the prize metal in several necklaces and rings, but gave the gold an extra treatment.
“You can see that I did not use 14-carat gold, but upgraded it to 18 carats which has a warmer and deeper colour. Jewellery is worth it”, says Dubbeldam.
Ring, 18 carats, yellow gold
Penka Arabova (Bulgaria), winner student prize NTJ 2010 True Colours
“The theme of NTJ has even inspired me when I made my final project. My work is strongly influenced by nature. Structures, organic elements and the combination and effect of different materials in silver and various synthetics tell the tales of the most important moments of my life. The sculptural aspect remains very important in my work and makes my pieces of jewellery look more and more like small objects”.
Caroline Hornauer (Chile) winner NTJ 2008 Intimacy
She combines remains of houses that were destroyed by earthquakes in Tirúa, Chile in 2010 with colourful elements and the prize metal. “Jewellery helps me to cope with the painful memories of the earthquake which are omnipresent, wherever I find myself. After the rain the sun will shine again and after the storm a magnificent display of colour will show itself”.
‘Four’, brooch from the series ‘Hidden’.
Tove Rygg (Norway), winner NTJ 2010 True Colours
She used the 14-carat gold to make more jewellery in her series LINK.
“I used the silver for the solid parts of a new collection of earrings. The first result is the pair of swan earrings in which I also used gems from Ruppenthal”.
Serin Oh (Korea), winner student prize NTJ 2010 True Colours
Necklace Imitation & Deception, silver
For each edition of NTJ the gold and silver prizes are put up by Schone Edelmetaal (nomen est omen); for the edition of 2010 they were supplemented with a collection of (semi) precious stones from the internationally reputable wholesaler Ruppenthal in Germany. These pages are a token of appreciation and gratitude for this outstanding cooperation!
NORA ROCHEL: the NTJ Award 2008 was an important milestone
The young German designer Nora Rochel creates fairytale flowers and plants from various metals, just like a gardener. They complement one another to produce a veritable flora in the form of rings, necklaces and brooches. The designer also works with porcelain to create objects such as exceptional vases. In 2008, Nora Rochel received first prize in the New Traditional Jewellery competition which focused on the theme of intimacy. The designer was able to use this award as a springboard to professional success.
- Two years ago, the Sieraad Art Fair awarded you first prize in the New Traditional Jewellery competition, based on the theme of intimacy. What was the significance of this award for you?
I was still a student at that time so the prize came as a real surprise. It was a great experience. The prize enabled me to look to the future with optimism and reassured me that I had chosen the right career.
- Your prize was 750 grams of silver and a stand at the Sieraad Fair in 2009. What use did you make of these two things?
I used the silver for my final year project. It worked very well as I was able to make several silver pieces from it. The fair was also a big success for me. I received some great feedback from both private individuals and galleries. It enabled me to establish some contacts with the galleries including renowned institutions such as the Galerie Louise Smit in Amsterdam, which was like a prize in itself!
- In addition to your German heritage, you also have Asian roots. To what extent does this mix of cultures influence your design work?
In 2007, I spent a semester studying in Korea and my teacher there was very passionate about contemporary jewellery. Strangely enough, working with her I learnt more about contemporary European jewellery than when I was in Germany! I have become more disciplined since being in Korea. Students are often expected to work through the night there. I think it’s great fun to fluctuate between cultures; to follow developments in Korea and meet Korean jewellery designers in Germany, to exchange ideas and support one another. At an exhibition in Seoul this year (New Contemporary Ornament +10), I was able to see that my flower jewellery cast pieces are also well received in Korea.
- You work on two areas of design: using precious metals to make jewellery and porcelain to make objects. How do they complement and differ from one another and how do you use this in your creative work?
The great thing about porcelain is that I can work with colours and the pieces have a completely different dimension than my jewellery items. It’s a refreshing but physically-demanding change: the moulds are very big and heavy and I often have muscle ache after a day’s work with porcelain!
- You were awarded the NTJ prize in 2008 for a textile jewellery piece. Do fabrics still play a role in your design work or are you now focusing on other materials? What direction will your creativity be taking in future?
I am still in the process of establishing myself as an independent designer so I have neglected drawing, painting, porcelain and experimental work a little. But like many designers, I collect various materials, fabrics, corals and glass beads and I will certainly try out other materials when the right occasion arises. However, I am very passionate about casting techniques and working with wax. They offer endless new routes and forms to explore.
I think I will continue to use this technique my whole life long.
Tekst: Christel Trimborn
Photos: Nora Rochel